If you missed this months Therapeutic Yoga for Rock Climbers here is a tidbit of what was offered in this shoulder-centric class!

82% of injuries in rock climbers were reported as overuse injuries with 63% being upper body injuries. Although finger injuries slid into the number 1 slot, shoulder injuries such as SLAP Lesions, Rotator Cuff Tears made up 19% of these injuries. (1)

Now, being the curious person I am, I wondering why our shoulders are so susceptible to injury when it feels like climbing is in our DNA; starting with climbing up the stairs, then trees and playgrounds and then that big old rock in Squamish BC.

How and why are we more likely to tear our Rotator Cuff when our distant relatives easily swing from branch to branch?

'This image shows differences in the position of the shoulder between chimpanzees (left) and humans (right). These differences can be seen in both the muscular anatomy and in the bony anatomy of the scapula (shoulder blade). (Image credit: Brian Roach/Neil Roach)' (3)

What is important here is that we humans require muscular engagement to reach above our heads and hold onto things. We engage muscles that support the integrity of the shoulder joint.

In the article, 'The Role of the Scapula' by Russ Paine and Michael L. Voight, they talk about the important role that the scapularthoracic joint has in the health of our glenohumeral joint and the rotator cuff that holds and protects it - the glenohumeral joint is where you'd likely point to if I asked you to locate your shoulder. Paine and Voight state that:

1. 'The scapula [provide] a stable base from which glenohumeral mobility occurs.'

2. 'Stability of the scapularthoracic joint depends on coordinated activity of the surrounding musculature.'

3. 'The scapular muscles must dynamically position the glenoid so that efficient glenohumeral movement can occur.' (4)

If the scapularthoracic joint is not functioning well the glenohumeral joint will likely be impacted.

In many of the climbers I have worked with (including myself), the muscles of the upper back tends to be tight, impacting the movement of the scapularthoracic joint and thus impacting the health of the glenohumeral joint.

Now, what can we do about it? In the last Therapeutic Yoga for Rock Climbers class I introduced some Yin Yoga poses targeting the joints of the shoulder. Yin Yoga is a practice that specifically stresses (in a good way) the connective tissue by holding a pose for an extended period of time with no muscular engagement. In Bernie Clark's Complete Guide to Yin Yoga he outlines some of the physical benefits of Yin Yoga including:

• Improving range of motion and flexibility

• Reducing adhesions, which restrict movement between the sliding surfaces of our muscles (notably important for that scapularthoracic joint!)

• Stimulating the growth of fibroblasts, which are the cells responsible for creating collagen, elastin, and the water-loving molecules that hydrate our tissues and joints

• Making our ligaments thicker and stronger through collagen production

• Stimulating chondrocytes and osteoblasts, which create cartilage and bone, helping to reduce degeneration of these tissues (5)

There are many other physical, mental and energetic benefits of Yin Yoga but for this discussion, these are the ones I will focus on.

By integrating Yin Yoga poses into your routine, along with dynamic scapular movement, you may be able to improve the health of the joints of your shoulder girdle by improving movement and strengthening connective tissue!

Here are three yin yoga postures we explored in the last class that you can try in your routine for your optimizing your shoulder health!

Cow Face Arms

Target Area: Tricep of upper arm and rotator cuff of lower arm

Find a comfortable sit and inhale as you lengthen your spine. Stretch your arms out to the side level with your shoulders, palms faced forwards. Internally rotate your right shoulder so that your palm faces backward and your thumb is pointing down. Bring your right hand behind you near your scapula.

With your left arm, bring it straight above your head and bend at the elbow, finding your right finger tips behind you. If your fingers do not touch, you can use a strap, leash, tie or sock. Breath.

After a few minutes, switch sides.

Eagle Arms

Target Area: Upper back (trapezius, rhomboids)

In a comfortable seat, bring your arms in front of you and place your right elbow on top of your left. Bending at your elbow, wrap your forearms together and bring your palms together. Try to elevate your elbows level with floor. You may choose to explore folding forward.

An alternative pose to get into this area is to give yourself a big hug and fold forward.

After a few minutes, switch sides.

Broken Wing

Target Area: Pectoral and/or Bicep

Lying down on your belly, bring your arms out to your sides with your palms faced down level with your shoulder. From here, begin to roll onto your right hip and turn your torso and pelvis to face the left. Perhaps, bring your left foot behind you.

You may choose to continue to find a slight engagement in your right hand here and explore moving your hand further up or down. After a few minutes, switch sides.

When practicing Yin Yoga, here are a few things to keep in mind:

• Find the first point of sensation (not the biggest sensation)

• Hold for a period of time

• If you feel any discomfort, ease off or maybe explore a different shape

• Be mindful that this is not something to do with a shoulder injury or before climbing

Now, remember that every body is different so these may not work for you and that is okay! Stay curious!

If you have something that you want support with that will help you reach your climbing goals, contact me or join our next Therapeutic Yoga for Rock Climbers by checking out our Studio Schedule!

References + Resources

(1) Physiopedia - Rock Climbing Injuries

(2) 'Human Shoulders Evolved to Throw Some Better Than Others' - Natalie Jacewicz (Mercury News, 2016)

(3) 'The Evolution of High-Speed Throwing' - Neil Thomas Roach (Harvard University)

Picture Credit: Roach, N.T., Venkadesan, M., Rainbow, M.J., Lieberman, D.E. 2013. Elastic energy storage in the shoulder and the evolution of high-speed throwing in Homo. Nature. 498. 483-486.

(4) 'The Role of the Scapula' - Russ Paine, PT1 and Michael L. Voight, PT, DHSc, OCS, SCS, ATC, FPAPTA2 (Int J Sports Phys Ther. 2013 Oct; 8(5): 617–629)

(5) The Complete Guide to Yin Yoga: The Philosophy and Practice of Yin Yoga - Bernie Clark (2012)

Kindly note that I am not a licensed physician or another licensed healthcare provider. This information is not intended as medical advise and it is your responsibility to assess if you are able to practice any yoga or to check with your primary care physician and/or physiotherapist.